I will not be held responsible for any damage that results from you looking at or following these ideas and designs. If you don't feel comfortable goofing around with this stuff or the possibility that you could damage something on your camera, just don't do it. Some of these repairs can be attempted without a Minolta SRT service manual, but I recommend spending the 12 dollars or so to get one. The descriptions and procedures in that manual should be followed, and I only will attempt to amplify or clarify some not so obvious points on this web site.

See the section on the tools you might need before attempting the repairs.

Mirror doesn't return after taking picture

The root cause for this problem most likely is that the second shutter curtain is not completely closing or that it is not closing with enough force to trigger the mirror release.   First diagnose the problem.

1. Remove the bottom cover of the camera. This is easily accomplished by unscrewing the two screws. See note about the screws on this camera in the tools page . After that you should be able to slide the cover off.
2. Take a picture. If the mirror does not return, manually engage the mirror return mechanism by pressing on the lever that the wheel would normally hit. See picture.
3. If the mirror does return, you have this problem.  If not, you have some other issue and should elsewhere for answers.

One version of this problem, I've seen, is the second shutter curtain hanging up on the first curtain, just at the end of it's run.  Fixing this required taking out the mirror box and straightening out the lathe on the shutter curtain.

The hack described next has also worked as a temporary repair for me. Your mileage may vary.  At this point, a true fix might involve removal of the mirror box assembly and then cleaning and lubricating the shutter bearings or finding whatever is binding and preventing the shutter from completing it's run.

1. Be careful as you work on this as you don't want loose screws wandering around the inside of your camera.
2. First make sure your camera in NOT cocked.
3. Then, unscrew the screw holding the mirror return firing gear on.
4. Then adjust the position of the knob (with the stutter NOT cocked) right up to the mirror return level. Your best bet is too try to do this in place without taking the gear out of the camera, as it might be a bit tricky to get back in place.
5. Tighten the screw back down and try your camera again.

Mirror/Camera back foam replacement

• Groves in which back is seated:  Use 1 mm thickness.  You only need to open back.  Cutting the foam and getting it into the the seats is a challenge.
• Mirror shock absorber: Use 2 or 3 mm thickness.  Only removal of lens is necessary.
• Under top cover:  Use 1mm thickness.  You need to remove top cover.
• Seal around viewfinder:  Use 1mm thickness.  You must remove top and viewfinder which is fairly time consuming.
• Bottom of mirror box:  Use 3mm thickness.  You must remove top, viewfinder and  mirror box- very time consuming and is not for the faint of heart.
  

Shutter closes right away in B mode, even when shutter button is held down

The meter doesn't work or is flakey

• A stuck needle - the needle may stick to the old and sticky foam that was used in construction.  My original camera took a rap on the side of the camera to free up the needle.  This lasted for a couple of years.  Eventually the foam totally dried out and it didn't need the rap anymore.  You will probably have to take the camera apart to get yours working again.

• CDS sensors that come loose from the viewfinder prism - they must be reglued with clear glue.   It may not be obvious that they are lose at first glance, but remember that they are glued to the prism and there should be no play between the cells and the prism.   I recently ran across one of these.  I cleaned the surfaces to be bonded with 91% isopropal alchohol and Q-tips.  The surface doesn't clean to a shiney state, but a matt state, as can be seen in the photo, above.  When mated with glue, the interface then becomes transparent.  I used Dupont clear epoxy purchased from a nearby department store.  If you remove the focusing screen from the bottom of the viewfinder, you can see how well the cell is mated with the viewfinder.  In my case the fix wasn't perfect, but qualified as good enough for my purposes.  Note that I'm not sure I can try again, anyway, since the epoxy has long since set.
• Strings that have come loose - simply must be restrung.  When stringing work from the bottom up.  Start with the aperture sting.  Then do the speed/ASA sting.  See the reassembly page for more details on strings and restringing.
• Aperture full open switch is shorted out on aperture follower pulley.  The switch must be adjusted.
• Debug meter problems with an ohm meter.  Try different amounts of light and see if the resistance across the CDS cell  changes.  Check for shorts and opens with the ohm meter, as well.  A basic knowledge of electronics helps considerably.
  

The focus screen is fogged

• The focus screen is made of a soft plastic.  It is easily damaged by solvents, which may fog the focus screen just through contact with vapor from solvent used in the proximity.  This particular repair is a last ditch strategy.  You should try this only if the focus screen can't be cleaned through normal methods, such as soap and water.  Once fogged, it is almost impossible to completely fix, but I have been able to get one into good enough shape to be usable again.
• I used a variable speed Dremel like rotary tool on the slowest speed and a cloth polishing tool.  I melted the focus screen in a couple of places, but cleared the haze out enough that it is pretty useable.  You must work very lightly and slowly or you will end up melting the plastic like I did.  Don't hold the bit in one place for very long or you will melt the focus scren in that spot instead of removing the haze there.

Aperture follower ring binds - doesn't rotate freely.

• Either it is dirty or something is bent.
• Lubrication is not needed on these components.
• Clean with soap and water while disassembled from the body.
• If the washer is bent, you must straighten it so that it lies perfect flat.
• If the coupling ring is bent out of round, you must get it back into round.  This is not easy, but mount it onto the cover and wiggle it to see which sides have play.  The other sides are probably tight.  Squeeze softly in on the sides that have play or push out a bit on the sides that are tight till it slides smoothly with very little friction in the cover.  Softly is the key word here.
  

Loose strap mount lugs

• Take the top off of the camera and tighten the screws in the top front corners of the body.